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22
Text: Anuschka Seifert Photos: Imagecontainer/Knölke
Helsinki, Sörnäinen, 11 a.m., 30°Celsius. The designer Martí
Guixé is standing under a bright blue sky at the end of the pier
of an old freight harbour. The contrast between the 13 futuristic
solar cookers made of highly polished aluminium sheeting and
their surroundings could not be greater. Guixé’s colleague, the
35-year-old chef Antto Melasniemi, who has made a reputation
for himself as a visionary, is busy making a salad consisting of
wild plants, carrots, caulifl ower, radishes and pumpkin seeds.
Melasniemi, who comes from Finland, energetically mixes the
vegetables with fi nely chopped wild herbs and fi ne Dauro olive
oil from Spain. To fi nish, he decorates each plate of salad with
edible fl owers from local meadows. The result is a fi ne example
of the new Nordic cuisine.
In the meantime, Guixé, wearing a sun hat and refl ecting
sunglasses, is strolling from one solar cooker to the next. The
cookers consist of a parabolic mirror with a device for hanging
cookware at the mirror’s focal point and a framework on wheels.
“Because of its low focal point, the cooker must be adjusted to
the sun’s movement only every half-hour,” says Guixé. “Because
the sunbeams are focused, the food to be cooked can be heated
to temperatures higher than 300°Celsius.”
The results can be seen and smelled. The chocolate
cake is just about to burn and the tomato and goat’s cheese
casserole with potatoes boiled in their jackets is almost done.
“It’s not so easy to use these solar cookers, which were developed
for the Third World, for cooking, grilling, roasting and frying.
The most important thing is not the ingredients and the dishes,
but sun cream, a head covering and a pair of sunglasses,”
Guixé adds. “Incidentally, these solar cookers have not been
widely accepted so far. In most developing countries it’s so hot
that the people there only start cooking when it starts to get
dark,” explains Melasniemi as he puts on his glacier sunglasses.
Then he turns the parabolic mirrors downward one after another
in order to reduce the cooking temperature.
In the meantime, the long wooden tables, which were
designed by Guixé, have been covered with white tablecloths
that fl utter in the wind. The Alessi crockery and glasses were
created by Jasper Morrison, whose strictly functional design
lends his products an air of refi ned simplicity. The highlights are
the wooden stools designed by Guixé, which are held together
by a wide blue band. If you want to fold up your stool, you stand
up and simply pull on the band. If you unfold the stool’s legs, the
band is stretched across the seat, thus holding the wood together
and giving the stool stability.
Simple place settings for about 60 guests, with a panoramic
view of the city centre’s skyline, are set up in front of the
counter where Melasniemi is now cleaning blueberries. The
improvised “sun kitchen” restaurant is standing on just over
500 square metres of hastily levelled ground which form a completely
new space on the abandoned pier. It couldn’t be more
simple and austere, and yet one defi nitely has the feeling that
the tables have been set for an exquisite meal. For Guixé, who
says he works on “clever and simple ideas with curiosity and
seriousness”, this temporary restaurant off ers the opportunity
“to rethink our relationship with kitchens, cooking, eating and
drinking, especially with regard to nature”.
The fi rst guests arrive about 11:30 a.m. Most of them
come on bicycles, only a few by car. They are well-dressed people
— couples, families with children and youngsters wearing
ultracool sunglasses and Birkenstock sandals. They’ve found
out on Facebook that the pop-up restaurant sponsored by the
Finnish beer manufacturer Lapin Kulta (Gold from Lapland) is
opening here today.
For Melasniemi and Guixé, neither the solar cookers nor
the organic produce is worth a special mention, as they believe
that sustainability should be a matter of course. They prefer to
focus on concepts such as fl exibility and directness. Guixé feels
more at home in the world of abstract concepts than in the material
world. In Melasniemi, a former keyboard player in the Finnish
band HIM, he has found the right culinary partner. “For years I
looked for an unconventional chef with whom I can share ideas
and develop joint projects,” he says. “Antto and I are doing
something that the great chefs don’t dare to do: we’re taking the
art of cooking to its limits and trying to burst its boundaries.”
Guixé regards himself as a “tapaist” and a “techno-gastrosopher”,
but primarily as an ex-designer. “My projects are
generally very abstract, and they’re shown in art galleries,” he
says. “But I’m neither an artist nor a designer in the academic
sense. In order to defi ne my position, I think the most appropriate
thing to call me is an ex-designer.” However, since he continues
to do design work, he is often called an “ex-ex-designer”.
Guixé often explains that he actually hates objects. He
likes to take objects of daily use and relate them to himself. Everything
that is superfl uous — the shape — disappears, and the
object in itself becomes a message. Instead of designing yet
another chair — “We only need two chairs in our lives” — he pre-
Martí Guixé is from Catalonia and studied in Barcelona and Milan. He is regarded as one of the most unconventional designers
of our time. Nonetheless, he is very critical of design in itself. He gained his notoriety primarily because of his off beat designs in
the fi eld of food design as well as his shop designs for Camper and the Desigual fashion label and his designs for Authentics,
Droog and Alessi. He has repeatedly questioned the world of products and design through his conceptual designs such as
“Pharma Food”; “Park Life”, architectural kitchen modules in natural settings; and his remarks about design, such as his “picture
frame from a tape dispenser”. Guixé has published numerous books and exhibited his works in venues including MoMA (New
York), mudac (Lausanne), MACBA (Barcelona) and the Centre Pompidou (Paris). He lives and works in Barcelona and Berlin.