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Carinthia Magazine 16
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while on the mountain knoll several cosy
mountain lodges await with their socalled
“Kostalan”, as culinary morsels are
known in Carinthian: a small steak from an
alpine steer in the Neugartenstüberl,
Carinthian pasta pockets with cheese at
the Gipfelhaus, and for dessert you should
definitely make a detour to the Pöllingerhütte.
The Gerlitzen Alpe has one undisputed
advantage over most of the
other mountains on the Alps-Adriatic
Trail: Just before Annenheim, on the
northern shore of Lake Ossiacher See, the
Kanzelbahn cable car runs up to the
summit. We mention it here only for the
sake of completeness, because you might
find that the many tasty morsels are much
easier to digest sitting down. And what’s
more, the view across Lake Ossiacher See
and towards the Julian Alps in the south
can be enjoyed in a much more relaxed
way from the gondolas.
Finkenstein: from Caballé to Crawford.
The last stage that runs entirely on Carinthian
soil leads from Velden am Wörthersee
to the Baumgartnerhöhe not far from
Lake Faaker See. Just before the finish,
you come to the ruined Finkenstein
Castle, which was first documented in
1142. The owners at the time, the Dukes of
Carinthia, certainly knew the most beautiful
spots around, because they erected
this castle on one of them. There are
breathtaking views into the Gail Valley
towards the west, the whole of the Rosental
Valley to the east and the sparkling
turquoise blue Lake Faaker See a long
way down below the northern side of the
castle. The present-day castle owner is in
fact not a duke, but a commoner. In the
1980s he got the idea into his head of
turning the ruin into a concert arena, a
plan that many people mocked at the
time, but which was destined to take off.
Since those modest beginnings a good
30 years ago, stars from the classics,
comedy and pop have appeared at the
arena: Montserrat Caballé and Agnes
Baltsa were here, as were Otto Schenk,
the unforgettable Falco, Al Jarreau,
Randy Crawford and Konstantin Wecker.
Many of the stars come back more than
once because – as they would be the first
to agree – there is nothing to compare
with this spot in the entire world. Yet the
artists don’t see the best bit of all,
because the sun sets behind the stage,
creating a natural spectacle that is visible
only from the ranks of spectators. Even
Madison Square Garden and the Royal
Albert Hall can’t come up with a better
light show than this!
Wild water and wine.
On the next stages of the Alps-Adriatic
Trail, hikers leave Austria and enter
Slovenian or Italian national territory. Here
the route by and large follows the River
Soča, which becomes the Isonzo on
Italian sovereign territory. Even the most
impassioned Carinthian has to admit
without a trace of envy that this Soča
Valley as far as the little village of Kobarid
is a jewel of nature, above all because of
the turquoise blue water of the wild river.
A wonderful setting for lovers of wild
water sports and for the anglers who pull
quite a few marble trout from the cool
water. The further south you travel alongside
the Soča, the lovelier the landscape
becomes. On stage 26 you cross the
Italian border for the first time and then
head westwards towards Cividale. And
here you will find yourself in the wellknown
region of the Colli Udine, the hills
around the Friulian capital Udine which is
famous for its wine growing. If you decide
to try this stage, be absolutely sure to
have one of the many culinary guides in
your luggage. It is not for nothing that
Friulian cuisine is known far and wide;
most of the taverns, restaurants and
osterias radiate that unique charm which
makes an unforgettable culinary experience
simply perfect.
Muggia in the Gulf of Trieste.
After just a few more stages you reach the
sea, where from the destination Muggia
you can look across the picturesque Gulf
of Trieste. The trail has followed the water,
from glaciers and along little brooks,
rushing rivers and deep blue lakes all the
way to the Adriatic Sea, into which ultimately
all the water flows. And here the
idea behind the Alps-Adriatic Trail reaches
its conclusion, like a perfect circle, as
well befits a Garden of Eden!
Further information from March 2012 at
www.alpen-adria-trail.com
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The 140 kilometre long River
Soča rises from a karst
spring in north western
Slovenia and flows
into the Gulf of Trieste.
The Renaissance Castle Dobrovo
in the Slovenian Goriška Brda.
The splendid Miramare Castle, the
residence of Archduke Ferdinand
Maximilian von Habsburg in Grignano,
5 kilometres outside Trieste.
Carinthia Magazine 17